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Shoe Station Stumbles as Fashion Week Tests AI and Shoppable Runways (September 15, 2026)

September 15, 2026 · 7m 56s · Listen

Fashion Week can sell a fantasy. A shoe chain’s earnings release has to sell the shoes. This is Fashion Business Daily: shoppable runways, Google’s AI experiment, and a very cold retail gut-check. Let’s start with Shoe Station. Lifestyle Washington Guardian writes:

Net sales of $284.3 million compared to $306.4 million in the second quarter 2025. - Shoe Carnival banner net sales declined 6.5 percent; Shoe Station banner net sales declined 8.4 percent. Sales in both banners were impacted by an increasingly promotional footwear marketplace and by assortments not fully aligned with the customers shopping the stores.

Shoe Station’s comps were down 7.1%, with both banners slipping—Shoe Carnival down 6.5%, Shoe Station down 8.4%. “Assortments not fully aligned” means the shoes on the wall weren’t what families came in to buy. That’s a buying problem. Company-reported net sales were $284.3 million, down from $306.4 million a year earlier, while gross margin fell to 31.9% from 38.8%. Promotions, liquidating aged inventory, and less help from pricing made for a very expensive mix. And you can’t coupon your way out of an assortment miss. A family shopping for back-to-school sneakers has plenty of places to go; if the right colorway or price point isn’t there, that sale is gone. August comps improved to down low single digits after more localized assortments—an early sign the fix may be working. But Shoe Station Group also lowered full-year sales and adjusted-EPS guidance; one better month doesn’t repair a 690-basis-point gross-margin decline. Glossy, with Emily Jensen:

Phillips, already an established makeup artist, knew it was time to take the next step. In 2025, she launched M.ph Beauty with a line of lip liners and lipsticks and, of course, her underpainting contour and highlighting palette. “I was just getting, like, thousands and thousands of videos, and I knew that was the moment,” said Phillips.

Mary Phillips had thousands of people copying underpainting after Tara Sigari’s 2023 tutorial, then launched M.ph Beauty in 2025 with the actual tools for it. That’s creator-led commerce at its cleanest: people wanted the technique before anybody asked them to buy a lipstick. Still, it took two years to turn that attention into a brand. Dr. Shereene Idriss says her skincare line spent roughly two and a half years in development before launch—a useful antidote to the idea that virality is a product pipeline. Mara Roszak had 20 years behind the chair. She says the product was locked, but building the company was the part she had to learn. Expertise gets you a formula people trust; it doesn’t magically build supply, distribution, or a reason to come back after the first hype purchase. Shoe Station’s numbers are a reminder: in a promotional market, a famous name and a strong launch mechanic won’t protect margin. These founder brands still need repeat purchases and full-price sell-through. Vogue, with Amy O’Brien:

After partnering with A24 to co-develop workflows for the film sector, Google’s Envisioning Studio set its sights on the fashion sector. Ahead of New York Fashion Week, Google partnered with designers Jane Wade and Sergio Hudson to develop and test two fashion-specific tools for pre-show styling and runway visualization in beta mode through its Flow AI creative studio.

Google is putting Jane Wade’s styling process and Sergio Hudson’s runway mock-ups into beta. Finally, an AI pitch for the miserable, expensive parts of making a show—not one pretending a prompt can replace a patternmaker. Hudson’s business case is simple: every staging mock-up costs money. If visualization trims recuts before a set gets built, that’s a measurable production saving—not a mood-board novelty. Sure, but Google learned this with A24 first. Film pre-visualization is not garment construction. Jane Wade still has to decide whether that fabric behaves the way the screen says it does, and the sample room still gets the final vote. That distinction matters. A faster workflow can reduce pre-show waste; it can’t rescue merchandise that misses the customer once it reaches the selling floor. Zofia Zwieglinska, writing in Glossy:

Kendra Scott is returning to the New York Fashion Week runway after 20 years, but CEO Chris Blakeslee is already thinking about what could come next. The brand’s jewelry will appear in PatBO’s show this week and be available to buy immediately. A jointly designed collection is planned for later, and Blakeslee said the company wants a larger presence at fashion week in future seasons.

Twenty years away from NYFW, and Kendra Scott is back through PatBO, with the jewelry live for sale while it’s on the runway. Good—because a runway cameo that can’t move product is just expensive content. Glossy reports a very specific test: pre-loaded social and e-commerce assets, with jewelry shoppable online and in stores as the show unfolds. Watch full-price conversion from that Tuesday show, not the volume of creator posts afterward. And PatBO is a smart setting. The pieces have to hold up beside the clothes; if they read like accessories placed there by a marketing calendar, people will clock it immediately. A future Yellow Rose runway show is a much bigger product claim. Blakeslee calls this a first chapter. For now, it’s a controlled see-now-buy-now placement, with a jointly designed collection planned later. Fashion ambition is easy to announce. A larger New York Fashion Week footprint has to be earned in sell-through. Here's Danny Parisi at Glossy:

But the real shot in the arm was its bridal business. Released as a one-off in 2024, Tanner Fletcher’s unconventional take on wedding attire, often using playful design elements like oversized bows and colorful embellishments, immediately took off. Two years later, bridal now makes up half of the brand’s business.

Half the business, just two years after a one-off bridal launch—that’s a real product signal. Tanner Fletcher found people who were tired of every wedding looking like it came from the same mood board. That half-of-business figure is founder-reported, but the operational detail makes it credible: Fletcher Kasell says they’re struggling to keep bridal in stock. Repeated stock pressure is much harder to fake. Shoe Station is the reminder here: don’t chase every customer with more inventory. Give a specific customer the oversized bow or the suit that fits their identity—something they can’t get from the standard bridal rack. The swim and vintage-decor expansion is still aspirational. Bridal is the proven engine. A customer arriving for a dress and leaving with a candlestick is charming, but it’s not yet a category strategy. If you’re enjoying Fashion Business Daily, please subscribe and leave us a review wherever you’re listening. Reviews help other people find the show, and help us keep making useful briefings for you.

Next, we’re watching Kendra Scott’s jointly designed PatBO collection—the next checkpoint after the shoppable NYFW jewelry placement.

Links to every story are in the show notes, so check out the pieces that caught your attention. That’s Fashion Business Daily for today. We’ll be back tomorrow. This is a Lantern Podcast.